Pics of my copy of WWF Wrestlemania CIB for the Nintendo NES.
Pics of my Crystalis CIB. It’s a great Action/RPG by SNK.
Pics of my copy of WWF Wrestlemania Challange for the Nintendo NES. It was released by LJN in 1990.
Here is my copy of Robocop complete in box for the Nintendo NES.
One of my favorite games and the follow-up sequel to Contra, Super C is a great two player game. If you’re a fan of Contra you’ll love the gameplay of Super C.
I recently picked up an original NES Deluxe set from a garage sale for only $40. It was a complete set and in the original box with Rob the Robot! Obviously I couldn’t pass up a deal this good.
Here’s some pics of the NES Deluxe Set Box for your viewing pleasure =)
Upon returning home to test it I found that everything worked perfectly except ROB wouldn’t move up or down. I was able to fix ROB so I thought I would share some knowledge on what I did to fix the problem.
How to fix ROB
It’s much easier to fix him if you turn him upside down. This is due to the fact that ROB is filled with gears and if he’s upside down the gears will not fall out when you remove the screws that hold ROB’s torso together.
Once the ROB’s torso screws are out the inside will look like this:
When ROB can’t move up or down it’s almost always do the the front gear/axle assembly. Back in the day Nintendo glued a part of it together and over time the glue can dry out and when that happens the gears won’t turn on the axle. Below is a picture of the gear I’m talking about:
All you need to do is remove of ROB’s as well as the gears that move the arms. Next you can remove the gear/axle assembly and put super glue on the part listed in the previous pic.
It’s much easier if you prop up ROB’s arms when you put him back together. You need to make sure everything lines up otherwise you will have to take it apart again because it will not work unless it’s lined up perfectly.
Some of the early released NES games from 1985 have a hidden treasure inside: Famicom to NES converters/adapters.
These converters will allow you play Japanese Famicom games on your NES Top Loader or NES Toaster.
All the early NES games are of the 5 screw case design so it’s easy to open them with a standard flat blade screw driver. This is a great reason to check your games to see if you have a surprise inside. If the NES game has a converter inside it’s going to weigh more than a regular NES game so you may be able to tell without even having to open it.
I’ve checked several of my games and was lucky to find out that my copies of Gyromite and Pinball both contain Famicom to NES converters.
The games you are most likely to find the Famicom converters in are in no:
(Note: this is from my own personal experience so use at your own discretion)
- Stack Up (All should have it)
- Gyromite (Some will have it)
- Pinball (Some will have it)
- Kung Fu (Some will have it)
- Excitebike (Some will have it)
- Wrecking Crew (Some will have it)
- Golf (Some will have it)
- Duck Hunt (Some will have it)
Nintendo NES Blue LED Console Mod
One way to make your Nintendo NES stand out is to remove that boring old red power LED and replace it with a different color LED of your choice.
I recently installed a blue LED in my NES so I took pics and figured I’d do a write up for someone if they wanted to do this mod. It doesn’t take a lot of skill and it’s very inexpensive to do. I hope you enjoy my DIY how to.
A Nintendo NES (duh)
LED (duh again)
About 20 minutes total time (or more depending on your skill level) to take apart the NES and solder in the new LED
Start taking apart the Nintendo NES:
1. Remove the 6 Phillips screws from the bottom of the Nintendo’s case.
2. Remove the top case and unscrew the 7 Phillips screws that attach the metal casing. Remove the metal case.
3. Remove the 4 Phillips screws that attach the game cartridge caddy. Slip out the caddy.
4. Remove the final 2 Phillips screws that hold in the NES motherboard.
5. Re position the motherboard out of the way and remove the 2 Phillips screws that secure the Power/Reset board.
Now plug in your soldering iron and get your de-soldering braid ready. Desolder the old LED and remove the plastic light spreader with it.
Make a note of the polarity of your new LED because it WON’T work if you install it the wrong way. The way you can tell the polarity of the LED is by looking at the legs. One leg will be longer than the other. The longer leg should be on the right side if your looking at the NES from the front. If you install it with the wrong polarity it won’t damage it or the NES it just won’t light up.
Insert your new LED into the light spreader and solder the new LED into the power/reset board.
Put the NES back together and enjoy your new colorful NES power LED.
I hope you found this DIY how to helpful. Please leave me a comment if you feel so inclined.
The NES MAX Controller was released in 1988 by Nintendo. Comparing it to the standard Nintendo NES controller it only has one thing better which are turbo A and B buttons. Everything else about the NES MAX sucks.
It seems the NES MAX was designed to be primarily used by young kids because the size of the controller is small. Width wise it’s shorter than the standard NES controller.
The worst part about the NES MAX is the “cycloid”. Instead of using the standard NES controller’s cross shaped four directional joypad Nintendo used a round disc called the cycloid. It wasn’t very responsive at all and it was uncomfortable to use for long gaming periods. Most gamers ended up using NES MAX’s 8 way controller ring that surrounded the cycloid.
A Nightmare on Elm Street was released in 1989 by LJN for the NES. It’s a side scrolling platformer game. The gameplay is based on two different Freddy Krueger movies, A Nightmare on Elm Street part 3: Dream Warriors and part 4: The Dream master.
The goal of the game is to collect Freddy’s bones and burn them in the boiler at Elm Street High School. Freddy’s bones are scattered all over the place in each level.
You start out on Elm street and your first goal is to go into a house (NOTE: not all houses are open even if the door looks open) . You need to collect all the bones in order to unlock a boss fight at the end of the level. If you have missed a bone or two and get to the end of the level you will have no choice but to go back through the level to find the missing bones. Once you fight the boss you will get a key that lets you in another house.
The gameplay also has a twist in that your character can fall asleep. In order to stay awake you need to find coffee. There’s a meter in game that shows how close you are to falling asleep. If you do fall asleep the gameplay shifts to the “Dream World”. In the dream world the monsters are more powerful but you also get to use your special Dream Warrior abilities. There are three different Dream Warrior abilities based on which one you have collected: A ninja who can throw ninja stars and jump kick, an Acrobat who throws javelins and does a jumping somersault and a magician who shoots fireballs and can hover.
The controls can be touchy but they’re pretty easy to master after some practice. Some of the levels have spots where enemies will spawn out of nowhere (bats mostly) and you can get some cheap deaths. It’s not a huge problem but when the screen gets crowded it can be frustrating.
The graphics are good for a 1989 NES game. The graphics for the Freddy boss fights are good for its time.
The music is well done. It’s catchy and it fits the mood of the game. Some have complained because LJN has used some of the music before in different games. I don’t see what the big deal is because it’s not bad music. I could see criticizing LJN if they reused bad music. That’s not the case here.
Another unique thing about A Nightmare on Elm Street is you can play up to four players simulataneously if you have a NES Satellite or NES Four Score.